Sobre gustos no hay nada escrito y lo bueno de estas listas es que cada uno las puede elaborar como prefiera. La verdad es que resulta muy difícil hacer una clasificación que tenga por objeto ordenar la belleza, algo tan subjetivo. Eso sí, seguro que pasamos un buen rato entre todos, porque si habeis viajado a la pequeña y preciosa región de los Cotswolds, en Inglaterra, os habréis quedado prendados de la belleza del entorno. Pueblos dorados que respiran en torno a iglesias, carreteras estrechas y frondosas que discurren entre túneles formados por los árboles y espacios en los que poder disfrutar de la calma que sólo los pueblos ofrecen. Los Cotswolds se extienden a lo largo de seis condados británicos, pero son especialmente visibles en Oxfordshire y Gloucestershire. Deben su nombre a una serie de colinas que se extienden por el suroeste y oeste de Inglaterra. A continuación os hablamos de los que para nosotros son los 15 pueblos más bonitos de los Cotswolds. Podéis estar de acuerdo o no, en cualquier caso aquí encontrareis muchas opciones cuándo queráis saber qué visitar en los Cotswolds.
Al Reino Unido es muy fácil viajar desde España, ya que es un país que cuenta con muchas conexiones con nuestro país. Para conocer los Cotswolds podéis desplazaros a alguno de los aeropuertos de Londres, que quedaría al este, a Birmingham, que estaría al norte, a Southampton al sur y nuestra recomendación, el pequeño pero abigarrado aeropuerto de Bristol, al este y muy cercano a la entrada a los Cotswolds. Si queremos visitar varios pueblos casi la única opción que nos queda es alquilar un coche. Al tratarse de pueblos que en algunos casos son muy pequeños, el transporte público resulta complicado. Sin embargo un coche nos dará total libertad. Así podréis hacer la visita a vuestro ritmo, dedicando a cada uno poco tiempo (en la mayoría de ocasiones es suficiente para hacerse una idea) o dejándoos llevar por la tranquilidad que proyectan. Si no habéis superado vuestro temor a conducir por la izquierda aquí intentamos ayudaros un poco. Con tres o cuatro días podéis tener una impresión muy certera de cómo son estos pueblos y cerca de ellos hay otros muchos atractivos. Aquí os recordamos cómo fue nuestra ruta de una semana por Inglaterra.
15- BLOCKLEY
Blockley es Cotswolds en estado puro. Un pueblo tranquilo, aunque no de los más pequeños, que fue importante centro de la industria de la seda entre el siglo XVIII y el XIX. Está en el condado de Gloucestershire. Permite apacibles paseos y multitud de rutas por la campiña británica. La iglesia de San Pedro y San Pablo, del siglo XII es uno de sus rincones más fotografiados, junto a las casas de amplios ventanales que la rodean. Tiene unos 2.100 habitantes.
14- CHIPPING NORTON
De menor fama que su casi homónima Chipping Campden, se ubica en el condado de Oxfordshire. Hay evidencias de asentamientos ya desde la prehistoria. Si llegáis en coche hay un gran aparcamiento en el centro, junto al ayuntamiento, en la confluencia de varias calles que se repiten pueblo tras pueblo; "High street", "New street", "Market street". Pese al reducido tamaño en verano su vida es exuberante y está llena de festivales. Ya que paramos junto al ayuntamiento esa puede ser la primera visita. Fue construido en 1842.
Y si nos referimos al poder político, justo es mencionar que quizá por estas calles os crucéis al ex primer ministro británico David Cameron, que reside en la zona. A partir de aquí la duda es en qué dirección caminar. Chipping Norton cuenta con un bonito antiguo ayuntamiento, tres escuelas, restos de un castillo y muchas casas que relucen al sol. Quizá lo mejor sea eso, perderse entre sus apacibles calles.
Si queréis algo más concreto os sugerimos que os dirijáis a Church Street, una prominente cuesta hacia abajo desde el centro que cuenta con dos referentes. Por un lado a la derecha veréis las "Almshouses", una serie de casas contiguas características de los Cotswolds que identifican un estilo de construcción. Estas fueron edificadas en 1640.
Al final de la cuesta, en la colina junto a la que yace el antiguo castillo, está la preciosa iglesia de Santa María con su anexo cementerio. Como en muchos sitios, en los pueblos más pequeños de los Cotswolds los cementerios se construyen alrededor de las iglesias. Hay partes del templo que son del siglo XII, pero la construcción se modificó en 1485.
Son algo más de 6.400 habitantes y Chipping Norton bien vale una parada en tu recorrido.
13- MALMESBURY
Malmesbury está al norte del condado de Wiltshire y tiene unos 5.600 habitantes. Puede haber varias razones para visitarla, pero sólo una es la más poderosa. Su imponente abadía, también con cementerio anexo. El primer rey de Inglaterra, fallecido en el año 939, está enterrado aquí. Para entonces el edificio ya tenía historia, porque acabó de construirse en el 676, pese a sus posteriores modificaciones. Sus muros encierran cientos de años de vicisitudes. Esta llegó a ser la segunda biblioteca más grande de Europa y aquí se hizo el primer intento de vuelo humano, que acabó con dos piernas rotas en el aterrizaje.
Hoy la abadía atrae a 65.000 turistas al año. Visitarla es completamente gratuito, aunque los donativos se agradecen. Su interior recuerda su historia mediante una cuidada arquitectura, pero también las comodidades del siglo XXI. Hay sofás para disfrutar de la lectura y una pequeña cafetería; lo nunca visto.
La vida comercial en Malmesbury no se aleja mucho de la abadía. Se extiende a través de "High Street", que se inicia justamente junto a otro de los símbolos de esta pequeña localidad. Se trata de Market Cross, un pequeño monolito del siglo XV perfectamente preservado que sirve de lugar de encuentro y que nos recuerda la tradición comercial del pueblo, ya que su uso original era cobijar precisamente a los comerciantes. Se trata de un tipo de construcción que se repite machaconamente, aunque este es bastante particular.
Hay bibliotecas y todo tipo de iglesias para disfrutar del paseo. Aquí los edificios color miel tan típicos también son fácilmente visibles, aunque en algunos puntos se sustituyen por casas de diferentes colores. El río Avon, no especialmente caudaloso, baña Malmesbury.
12- BRADFORD-ON-AVON
Puede que estemos rozando el límite. Bradford está a apenas diez kilómetros de la popular Bath, de hecho suele ser una visita complementaria para los turistas. Aún en el condado de Wiltshire nos alejamos de la pureza de los Cotswolds, pero mantenemos su esencia también aquí con el paso del río Avon. Sus 10.000 habitantes cruzan a diario "Town Bridge", el puente más emblemático que divide a la ciudad y ofrece las vistas más espectaculares. El aparcamiento junto al ayuntamiento, en St. Margaret's Hall, puede ser un buen punto de inicio del recorrido.
Allí está la oficina de turismo y las fotos más interesantes para los amantes de los paisajes con un pueblo que se edifica a lo largo de la colina.
La industria de la lana desarrolló Bradford-on-Avon durante el siglo XVII. Hoy el comercio al por menor y el turismo son sus mejores bazas. Pese a que en tamaño es mayor que lo visto hasta ahora, el paseo, afeado por alguna cuesta, tampoco nos llevará mucho tiempo. Recomendamos la iglesia de St. Thomas More, en lo alto de un prominente montículo, pero muy céntrica. Sus instalaciones ocupan lo que antes era el ayuntamiento. El interior, alejadas las tareas municipales, no es tan vistoso.
11- CHIPPING CAMPDEN
La ligeramente curvada "High Street" de Chipping Campden, esa que obligatoriamente tendréis que atravesar si venís de algún sitio y queréis ir a otro, supone el principal reclamo de este lugar, considerado uno de los más elegantes de los Cotswolds. Lo son sus negocios, especialmente sus cafés y pequeños restaurantes. Y lo es el pueblo en general por su fantástico estado de conservación. Sólo el tráfico abierto, necesario pero molesto, le resta algo de romanticismo.
Al fondo de la foto anterior se divisa la torre de la iglesia de St. James, la que dicen es una de las más bellas de la región. Se llega a través de un pequeño desvío de la calle principal, porque aquí todo está en esa calle. En el centro Market Hall, una construcción de 1627 para dar cobijo a los comerciantes que posee ahora el fondo de conservación británico.
Chipping Campden se ubica en el condado de Gloucestershire y tiene apenas 2.500 habitantes. En la misma Plaza del Mercado y en las calles aledañas podéis encontrar aparcamiento y recorrer a pie los numerosos hitos que jalonan esta avenida. Disfrutad paso a paso de su arquitectura y de sus brillantes colores. Iglesias, anticuarios, galerías y pequeñas casas se suceden por el camino.
10- LOWER SLAUGHTER
Unida por una calle y por el río Eye a su hermana, Upper Slaughter, y ubicada a apenas unos metros de Bourton-on-the-Water, el gran tesoro de los Cotswolds, merece un pequeño desvío en el camino. Es imposible perderse aquí, dónde apenas hay dos calles, pero qué dos calles. Una de ellas, "Copshill road", está considerada por algunos como la calle más romántica de toda Inglaterra.
Pese a que su nombre puede ser literalmente traducido como "matadero", nada lo aleja más de la realidad. Se recomienda la visita a su molino. Tanto su ayuntamiento como buena parte de su escasa arquitectura urbana discurre junto al río, lo que le otorga un extra de paz si es que era necesaria por estos lares, entre bancos y lugares para el picnic.
De Lower Slaughter dicen que es uno de los pueblos más fotografiados de los Cotswolds, y aquí se han rodado algunas superproducciones. Si el dinero no es problema os podéis alojar en la "Manor House", una espléndida casa solariega que casi preside el pueblo. A su lado la construcción religiosa más importante, la iglesia anglicana dedicada a Santa María, que data del siglo XIII.
9- STOW-ON-THE-WOLD
Stow-on-the-Wold tiene unos 2.300 habitantes, se encuentra en el condado de Gloucestershire y es el pueblo más alto de todos los Cotswolds. También aquí "Market Square" acapara la atención, ya que Stow acogía numerosas ferias de ganado con la oveja como principal protagonista. Cuentan que hasta 20.000 se vendían en un solo día.
La plaza está presidida por una cruz en el centro en cuya placa se lee una inscripción de otro de los hechos relevantes de la historia, la Batalla de Stow, que se libró en 1646 durante la guerra civil británica. Y es que la privilegiada posición geográfica que ocupa el pueblo le ha valido estar en el centro de muchas refriegas.
La plaza es el punto de encuentro esencial. Allí está la oficina de correos, la preciosa biblioteca pública y también la iglesia de St. Edward, probablemente la más destacada de la visita y que en su época fue usada como prisión por las tropas leales a la corona, que finalmente fueron derrotadas, ya que era el único edificio que tenía candado.
El tamaño de la plaza atestigua la importancia de Stow en el pasado. Hoy, lejos de contiendas y con la agricultura viviendo momentos más complicados, la ciudad se ha reinventado y centra su actividad en las galerías y boutiques junto con restaurantes que cuentan con gran fama. Salir de la plaza y visitar alguna de las calles aledañas nos permitirá darnos cuenta del encanto de Stow.
8- BIBURY
Bibury aparece en todas las guías como uno de los pueblos más bellos de los Cotswolds. Un protagonismo algo excesivo en nuestra opinión, aunque para nada injustificado. Tal protagonismo se lo debe en buena medida a una calle, Arlington Road, considerada de las más bellas de todo el Reino Unido. Nada que oponer, ya que une la bellísima arquitectura de los Cotswolds con un paisaje idílico junto al riachuelo Coln. El lugar en cuestión, que incluso aparece en los pasaportes británicos, no permite el acceso a las casas o a sus jardines. Quizá sea tanta popularidad la que le reste sorpresa, al menos para nosotros. Esa zona, la más cercana al riachuelo, está presidida por el puente que lo cruza frente al que divisamos el majestuoso hotel "The Swan".
En el condado de Gloucestershire y con apenas 700 habitantes, Bibury parece mucho más. El río divide la ciudad en dos y junto al puente está también la "Trout Farm" o granja de truchas, además de un área pantanosa. Sí seguramente es una más, pero a nosotros nos encantó la iglesia anglicana de St. Mary's , muy cerca de Arlington Row y junto a la curva de la carretera. A su lado está, como no, el cementerio y también la escuela de primaria.
7- TETBURY
En Gloucestershire y con el tamaño estándar de 6.000 habitantes emerge un pueblo que estaría más alto en la lista de no tener tanto tráfico. Su centro es un cruce de carreteras que, si bien recuerda su importancia en otra época, también distrae con el incesante tráfico pesado. El aparcamiento no es complicado, aunque como en el resto de sitios, de pago. El parking más recomendable si no se encuentra nada en la ruta, está en la calle Chipping. Justo enfrente está Market House o Casa del Mercado.
Aquí la mayoría de las casas de los mercaderes de lana de hace tres siglos se mantienen intactas. Tetbury era un importante centro de comercio y hoy todo el pueblo está construido en torno a este brillante edificio amarillo que sigue usándose como punto de reunión.
Pero Tetbury es mucho más. Ha sabido reinventarse y abrirse al turismo. Hoy decenas de tiendas de antigüedades le dan la bienvenida a una ciudad llena de vida. Durante tres años ganó el premio de "Mejor ciudad pequeña de Inglaterra" y cuentan que entre sus vecinos hay varios actores ilustres. El príncipe Carlos también vive cerca. Los paseos panorámicos aquí pueden durar lo que se quiera.
Si miramos a edificios concretos, además de la Market House citaremos la cercana y espectacular iglesia de St. Mary the Virgin, un precioso templo de estilo neogótico cuya calma sobrecoge. Su altísima torre picuda cuenta con un poderosísimo efecto llamada.
En su horario habitual, y como todas las demás, el interior también se puede visitar de manera gratuita. Esta vez es muy recomendable. Además de una bellísima nave central, en uno de los pasillos podéis encontrar el escudo original de la "Wool sack race", otro de los elementos que hacen popular a Tetbury. Se trata de una carrera de sacos de lana que se corre todos los últimos lunes del mes de mayo.
6- WOODSTOCK
He aquí una de las sorpresas del ranking, porque Woodstock no suele aparecer entre las visitas más codiciadas. Lo suyo parece limitarse a ser muleta del anexo e imponente castillo de Blenheim, cuna de Winston Churchill. Craso error. En Woodstock veremos a muchos turistas ansiosos por el castillo, pero caminar entre sus tranquilas calles es un premio. Para nosotros fue la puerta de entrada a los Cotswolds, ya que está pegado a Oxford, a poco más de 10 kilómetros.
Sus poco más de 3.000 habitantes están muy acostumbrados al turismo. Tal es la importancia del castillo que su ayuntamiento, una de sus construcciones más reconocibles, está en la esquina del triángulo entre "High Street", "Market Street" y "Park Street", sí, la calle del parque o del aparcamiento, según se mire, porque aquí muchos vienen buscando eso. De hecho el final de la calle está conectado con una entrada al castillo, aunque es sólo para personal autorizado.
Las galerías y los excelentes restaurantes abundan. Los paseos culturales también son posibles, encabezados por la iglesia de Santa María Magdalena que también posee un bello interior.
5- BURFORD
Nuestra primera impresión con Burford no fue buena. Más que nada porque nos lo saltamos y muy grande no es, pero tampoco es para tanto. Burford está en un desvío de la A40. Sólo hay que llegar a la gran rotonda y girar como está indicado. Visto así no parece difícil, pero a nosotros se nos atragantó. La calle principal, "The Hill" en el primer tramo y "High Street" en el segundo, está en cuesta y pese a que es bastante ruidosa por el tráfico recomendamos no perderse ni un detalle de sus laterales. Uno de los lugares más fotografiados es la hilera de casas que se eleva tras el monumento a los fallecidos en la Primera Guerra Mundial.
Con unos 1.500 habitantes, por si en los 10 pueblos anteriores se os ha olvidado comprar en las galerías o anticuarios, aquí tenéis una nueva oportunidad. Este pueblo medieval ubicado en Oxfordshire es también puerta de entrada a esta maravillosa región. La huella del tiempo es perfectamente visible. Aquí está la farmacia más antigua de toda Inglaterra. Cuando se fundó en 1734 ya había pueblo.
A mitad de bajada, o subida, según se haga, el peculiar edificio Tolsey, hoy museo, nos recuerda el que era punto de encuentro de Burford para los comerciantes. Hoy ilustra la historia social e industrial de la villa.
Si os recomendamos que no os perdáis nada en los laterales es porque lo mejor de Burford son sus pequeños callejones que a menudo dan paso a extraordinarios jardines dignos de ser recorridos y ausentes de visitantes que se salgan del ajetreo de la villa principal.
Muy cerca de la oficina de información turística, al fondo de "Church Lane" emerge la preciosa "Burford Church", una iglesia consagrada a San Juan Bautista con un cementerio anexo que supone uno de los grandes atractivos de este pueblo.
4- BROADWAY
Llegar a Broadway e iluminarse nuestra cara fue todo uno. Está en el condado de Worcestershire y tiene unos 2.500 habitantes. Su nombre no tiene relación con la popular calle neoyorquina, aunque como ella, hace referencia a la anchura de su calle principal. Es esa "High Street" la que no puedes dejar de recorrer una y otra vez con una sonrisa en los labios.
A la espalda de la calle principal tienes un amplio aparcamiento y un pequeño centro comercial. Porque aquí lo que más abundan son las tiendas. El recorrido es pausado y lleno de opciones. Los negocios están cuidadosamente adornados para llamar la atención.
Broadway está abierto a la campiña y muchos lo consideran un excelente punto desde el que organizar excursiones por su cercanía a muchos sitios. En el verano sus bancos y parques se llenan de vida.
La principal iglesia de la ciudad, a unos pocos pasos de la calle principal, es "Saint Michael and all Angels". Como en otros muchos lugares de los Cotswolds está muy cerca de los sitios más populares y es muy visitada, pero conserva esa calma que invita a bajar la voz.
Fuera del núcleo urbano hay que citar también como atracción la "Broadway Tower", una curiosa torre utilizada en su día con fines defensivos a la que se puede acceder. Nosotros nos quedamos fuera, no llegamos a subir, pero cuentan que las vistas son magníficas, ya que una vez que lleguemos arriba estaremos a 312 metros, el segundo punto más alto de todos los Cotswolds.
3- CASTLE COMBE
Si Arlington Road es la calle más conocida de los Cotswolds, las fotos de Castle Combe quizá sean las más populares a la hora de representar al pueblo típico de esta región. La calle que lo atraviesa se llama "The Street", así que ya nos hacemos una idea de cuántas calles hay. Ubicado en el condado de Wiltshire, no sería tan perfecto si no fuese porque parece de mentira. Pero es real, muy real. Superado el problema del aparcamiento, porque aquí no hay espacio para casi nada y si lo hay está lejos (hay un parking en lo alto de la colina), Castle Combe se te escapa en apenas 300 metros. La foto más típica se toma en el puente, en la zona baja del pueblo, sobre el pequeño arroyo al que atraviesa y ofrece una panorámica casi completa.
Poseídos por la perfección del cuadro no conviene que nos olvidemos de las pintorescas casas que adornan Water Lane junto al agua.
El edificio religioso más importante, o el único, según se mire, es la pequeña iglesia episcopal de St. Andrew. Si vamos subiendo quedará a nuestra izquierda. Desde lejos divisaremos su torre y desde cerca podemos ver todo el recinto.
La imponente Market Cross ilumina el centro del pueblo, casi su único cruce de calles. Una plaza dedicada al comercio en la que podemos girar sobre nuestros pasos y deleitarnos con la panorámica contraria, la de las casas "limestone" en bajada mientras esperamos con paciencia a que desaparezcan los coches y los turistas para que la foto sea limpia. No siempre es posible.
Allí mismo podemos alojarnos o simplemente tomar un refrigerio en el "Manor House Hotel" de cinco estrellas. En sus pasillos, incluso en los que dan acceso a los baños, varios carteles recuerdan que aquí se rodaron famosas películas como "Stardust", "El hombre lobo" o "Caballo de batalla" de Steven Spielberg. No está mal para un pueblo que apenas llega a los 350 habitantes.
2- STANTON
Hay que darle un poquito de originalidad a los rankings, ¿no? Aquí va algo que quizá no esperabais. De Stanton no habla mucha gente, casi nadie. De hecho nuestro GPS tuvo bastantes problemas para localizarlo. Si lo miráis en el mapa os diremos que está al sur de Broadway, pero muy cerca, a apenas 4 kilómetros. Es casi una pedanía, inmerso en el más profundo mundo rural de los Cotswolds. A ver, no nos engañemos, aquí no hay prácticamente nada, pero si os gustan este tipo de pueblos Stanton va a ser un descubrimiento del que gozareis.
Stanton tiene oficalmente 200 habitantes y está en el condado de Gloucestershire, aunque lindando con Worcestershire. Aquí no se oye nada. Hay más tractores que coches, las calles huelen a campo y casi todo está cerrado. Lo normal es que por las calles os crucéis, en el más absoluto silencio, con algún otro turista que ha tenido la misma idea.
El coche se puede dejar en cualquier parte, preferentemente a la entrada de "Cotswold way" para no estropear la foto. Una gran hilera de casas con paredes color miel se abre ante nosotros. Pasear por el centro de la calle es más que posible e ir absorbiendo la tranquila energía del lugar, recomendable.
Cierta fama tiene el "The Mount Inn", el pub del pueblo y pese a lo que se pueda pensar también hay algún que otro alojamiento. Cuando alguien habla de una "joya escondida", esta debería ser la viva definición.
La iglesia de St. Michael and All Angels se acerca ya a los 1.000 años de historia y parece querer pasar desapercibida. Imposible con tal porte y entre tanta belleza. La visita al interior es también recomendable.
Stanton es una inesperada sorpresa en el camino. Esperemos que un poco menos a partir de ahora.
1- BOURTON-ON-THE-WATER
A Bourton-on-the-Water lo llaman "La Venecia de los Cotswolds", incluso un mapa en el centro del pueblo lo dice. Arriesgado, ¿verdad? Obviamente no tiene mucho que ver. Eso sí, el escasamente profundo río Windrush propició la construcción de varios pequeños puentes, lo que unido a los característicos edificios de los alrededores y a los espacios para el picnic le acabaron confiriendo un encanto especial. Parecido con Venecia, más bien poco, pero resulta que eso es lo bueno. Poner a Bourton en lo alto de nuestra lista es complicado viendo el resto de "rivales", pero fácil viendo al pueblo. Sabemos que tiene que estar en el número uno porque jamás olvidaremos nuestra primera visita. Y muchas veces los viajes son eso, momentos que sabes que quedarán marcados a fuego en tu cabeza.
Bourton está en Gloucestershire y tiene unos 3.500 orgullosos vecinos. High Street y su paralela al otro lado del río, Victoria Street, son sus principales arterias. No menos de cuatro puentes salvan el escollo del río, que por otro lado podría atravesarse a pie sin mayores problemas, porque no es nada caudaloso. Se podría pensar que es un canal artificial creado para mayor gloria del sitio.
En verano Bourton-on-the-Water rebosa vida. Familias enteras se acercan al Windrush para cobijarse a la sombra de los árboles y pasar el día viendo como los más pequeños disfrutan del agua. El cauce no da para preocupaciones.
Poco a poco el deseo de no salir de aquí se va acrecentando. Haz como nosotros. Siéntate en la terraza del Old English Inn con vistas al río y pide una tabla de embutidos con una chispeante ginger beer y simplemente disfruta de lo que tienes delante.
Visita la "model village", una réplica a escala del pueblo, disfruta del museo de las aves que incluye especies como pingüinos o loros, piérdete en el laberinto "Dragonfly" y no dejes pasar el museo del automóvil de los Cotswolds, que está allí mismo.
Hasta aquí el listado con nuestros pueblos favoritos de los Cotswolds, algo tan personal que admite multitud de comentarios. ¿Cuáles son los vuestros? ¿Cuáles añadiríais? ¿Os hemos despertado el interés por visitar esta región? Pues abajo os dejamos un montón de enlaces que esperamos que sean útiles.
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